How I’m handling my adult acne

I can have gratitude for adult acne. I know, I know, not what you may expect to hear, and something I certainly never expected to say. But the reality is, I probably wouldn’t have this blog or my passion for skincare if it were not for my journey with adult acne. Acne is the reason I have a skincare routine, and have invested in myself in this capacity. And for that, I can have gratitude.

But, shit, adult acne is really the worst. Period. And if you’re in your late twenties or thirties, dealing with adult acne, then you are probably like me, and always on the hunt for something that will help cure your acne, because you didn’t think you’d still be dealing with it past puberty. It’s exhausting…

I’ve been pretty open and honest about my experience with Accutane, a prescription and intensive treatment for hormonal acne that I underwent at my dermatologist’s recommendation about three years ago, now. And to be honest, it was a life-changing treatment in so many ways. Not only did it eradicate my hormonal acne for years, but it also completely changed my perspective on skincare, and really helped me learn how to take care of myself through my skincare routine. For me, skincare is a form of self-love and care, and lot of that comes from my experience with Accutane.

It’s been a few years with barely a single blemish, but after making some changes in medications this Spring, and the return to school in masks (again), some of my acne is back. While it’s not all cystic, it’s definitely hormonal, and equally as frustrating. So lately, I’ve been really trying to help prevent and treat some of my acne as it comes in, and wanted to put this post together to share some things that are working for me.

The truth is, if you struggle with hormonal adult acne, there isn’t much in terms of skincare that is going to get rid of your acne. Hormonal acne is caused by fluctuations in hormones, and no amount of x, y or z is going get rid of it beyond creating a plan with your dermatologist. So this post is by no means proposing a cure-all for acne – I want to be clear about that. Personally, this podcast episode explains is so much better than I can, and I really resonated with so much of what was shared about the challenges with adult acne, as well as the failures of “acne-focused” skincare that is on the market more and more.

My golden rules

All that being said, here’s the bottom line, and my golden rules of how I am dealing with my adult acne. My first and foremost recommendation- you have to take care of your skin; you have to get a skincare routine, and you have to do it religiously. Nothing will help you prevent or take care of acne like this single step that requires consistency beyond anything. And I think you will find you enjoy it, once it actually becomes a routine (this takes weeks of routine!).

Second, you don’t have to use products that come from acne-based lines or ingredients. So many of these products are not going to help with acne beyond whiteheads or blackheads, which aren’t usually the causes/form of adult acne. And like I said, many of these products I’m sharing aren’t necessarily going to prevent acne, especially if it’s cystic. But many of these products can help with treating acne when it arrives and preventing it from scarring or damaging the surface of your skin, like mine did.

These two things are the biggest factors – you need to understand your skin, and you need to know that dealing with skincare is so far from a one-size-fits-all experience. Knowing your skin type, the triggers for your acne, and what’s actually going to work for your time and budget are all critical in delving into any of this. My tips are simply things that have worked for me, but they may need some tweaking to work for you. So let’s jump in – pick and choose what you need.

Double cleansing

The first step in any skincare routine or in dealing with adult acne is to make sure you are double cleansing your skin. I know the idea may seem daunting, and truthfully, unnecessary, but I will tell you, I was not doing this at the start of the summer because I got lazy, and as soon as I returned to this habit, a lot of the blemishes on my skin stopped appearing.

Your skin has pores, and some people have deeper or larger pores than others. A lot of gunk, from makeup, to SPF to just daily grime, get into your pores throughout the day, and washing once is not going to pull all of that our of your pores. That means, it’s getting locked into your pores, clogging them, and cause blemishes or allowing bacteria to spread. The best solution? Double cleansing, and using a (shudder) makeup wipe, is not going to cut it my friends.

I have dry skin, so for me, using a cleansing balm (like this one from ELEMIS) or oil-based cleanser (like this one from TATCHA) onto dry skin is key for cleaning out my pores and not stripping my skin’s hydration. If you haven’t tried a cleansing balm or oil, give it a go (you can find a post all about these products at various spending points here). Sometimes, even oily skin can respond to these kinds of cleansers because your focus is to really pull the grime out of those acne-prone pores before it gets trapped. If it’s too much on oily skin, try a light-weight cleanser and use it twice. I like to follow up with a lighter-weight cleanser, like this one from Indie Lee or this one from CeraVe, after I use a cleansing balm.

A key here? Use a washcloth while you’re double cleansing. I love a microfiber cloth because it really pulls all of the product off and gently exfoliates your face as you go. Exfoliation helps to remove dead skin, and allow products to really get into the skin versus getting blocked by dead skin cells. It’s also just such a pleasant spa-worthy moment to look forward to every evening. I linked everything for you below!

Two hero skincare products

There have been two hero skincare products for me in combatting acne; one is maybe expected – an acne patch – but needs mention nonetheless, and the other is one I have raved about for a while – AHA/BHAs or exfoliating acids. Both of these are required in my routine, and have aided more than any other products in combatting acne, especially when I am not using retinoids (these are another super great option for treating acne, but many people avoid them, so they aren’t a focus on this post).

• AHA/BHAs – If you missed my big post on these miracle products, then stop here first. Acids, or chemical exfoliators have been a part of my skincare routine for a long time, and I owe so much to them for aiding in the scarring and cleanup of my skin after Accutane. Not only to they target the hyperpigmentation and scarring leftover from acne (especially for the pickers), but they are also great for acne because their ingredients allow for them to get below the surface of the skin deeper than most other active ingredients. These products are chemical exfoliators, getting rid of the dry skin on the surface that ends up trapping bacteria and causing blemishes when it comes to whiteheads, blackheads, or other irritation. I incorporate this one from Farmacy into my nighttime routine at least three times a week, because it’s also paired with calming ingredients and antioxidants that help heal the skin as it exfoliates, so it doesn’t dry out and strip the skin causing further issues.

• Mighty Patches – This product is newer to me, but something I will never live without, especially when it comes to PMS. These patches are it, and I wish I had known about them sooner, especially as someone who is a skin-picker that causes so much damage and scarring from something so small. When you feel a blemish coming on or coming to the surface, place one of these patches on dry skin and wait until it turns white before you peel it off. Not only do these help bring the gunk to the surface without picking or squeezing, but they also are great for putting it on your skin to speed up the healing process. I love these, and they have different versions depending on what kinds of acne you’re dealing with. I highly recommend incorporating them into your routine to get rid of acne quicker, without any damage to the skin.

Luxe-musts for me

Chris and I love a luxe self-care experience, and we have gotten very into the facial game during the pandemic. I can’t get the man to do any type of skincare at home, but I will not complain about this new appreciation for the finer things. We go to Rescue Spa, and it their core set of products in their signature facial feature cult-favorite brand, Biologique Recherche. A warning in this header though, these products come with a pretty steep price tag. But I would not recommend them unless I thought they had made a huge difference in my battle with adult acne lately. I have seen such a significant improvement in my skin as a result of these two luxe-musts, and so they had to be shared.

• Lotion P50 – I’ve always been a believer that toner is a critical step in the skincare routine, one that many are skipping over too often. But this toner can and should change your mind. This product is great, especially if you have sensitive skin like mine. It’s a hydrating exfoliator, and similar to the AHA/BHAs above, it really helps to rebalance and set up your skin for the rest of your skincare ingredients. Unlike many toners, especially those that target acne, this one isn’t meant to completely dry out your skin from oils; it’s meant to hydrate and balance as it exfoliates, so the skin isn’t stripped or dry. There is a reason this toner has a cult following among beauty bloggers and skincare experts – there is no replacement for a product as unique as this one, and I’ve noticed better texture, less breakouts, and just overall bouncier and healthier skin since I started using it religiously a few months back. Pat it onto dry skin after you finish cleansing, and before any other products.

• Masque Vivant – If you want to scare the living daylights out of your partner or roommate, then this mask is a must. It looks SUPER scary on, and smells equally unsettling. But it has become such a staple in my weekly skincare routine, that it’s worth all of that and the steeper price tag if you have easily irritable skin. This mask is meant to purify, brighten, and just overall aid the complexion, and it really does all of those things. The combination of yeast, vitamin B and amino acids work together to clear clogged pores, rebalance the texture of the skin, and help with skin cell turnover. Currently, I am using this once a week, putting it on my face and neck, and let it sit for about 10-15 prior to the shower. I used this mask on trip to Italy and it prevented breakouts and cleared these little bumps and dry patches I had gotten from the long flights. If you don’t believe me, definitely read the reviews for similar praise for this product in its use of tackling adult acne – that’s what sold me!

While it can feel tough to justify spending a lot on skincare, the reality is, when you find products that work, keep them in your routine! In my mind, those products are worth their weight in gold, if for no other reason than you can stop testing and trying products you never finish to tackle skin challenges. For me, skincare is an investment in yourself. While I sang some praises at the beginning, my adult acne is one of the biggest challenges to my self-esteem that I have faced in my life. I struggled for years to get my skin under control, desperately trying any product I thought could bring me clearer skin that would sit well under makeup and not leave me looking like a flaky mess at the end of the day, or cause so much pain.

At the end of the day, Accutane was a miracle product for me, and I highly recommend you talk to your doctor if you have been struggling for years with cystic acne like I was – these products likely aren’t going to be the miracle or game changer you need in that case. Building a skincare routine and sticking to it really can do wonders for breakouts, and if you are looking for somewhere to start, start there! It’s not worth trying other products hoping for a change if you haven’t developed and stuck to your own routine and ensured that your skin is actually clean and ready for product before you jump in to a bigger budget for your skincare. When you’re ready, I recommend incorporating these products into your routine to really help prevent and treat acne, as well as its long-lasting scarring.

Adult acne can really make you feel your worst. If this post even helps one person, it’s worth it for me. Tackling skincare can seem overwhelming, and can often feel disappointing. But the truth is, there are products out there that work! Know your skin, establish the routine, and invest in yourself.

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