Skincare favorites: acids + chemical exfoliators

You guys have heard a lot about my struggles with acne. From ages 14 to 29, I was in a constant battle with my cystic acne, and it did serious damage to my skin and my self-esteem. But after completing a round of Accutane last summer, my acne has finally cleared. However, the scarring and hyperpigmentation left over did not.

When I look back at my wedding photos, I’m always so disappointed to see the realities of what my cheeks looked like when I was suffering from acne.

I am going to share a very very real photo that I found recently on my phone. This picture was taken when I was in the beginning months of Accutane. I had extremely irritated skin, with excessive dry patches. But you can see the intense damage that had been done to my skin from my decade + with hormonal acne, including redness, scarring and uneven texture.

I wanted to wait until my skin was fully healed before I did any medical treatments, and to see what I could accomplish topically before going to the next level. My dermatologist pretty much told me that we should tackle the pigmentation first. The pock-marks, as they are so wonderfully called, would remain in my cheeks she said.

Fast forward through a year into my real journey with proper skincare, and now I feel like I live a reverse life. People often compliment my skin and how clear and radiant it looks. And slowly, but surely, I have seen some of the damage from my skin erased with some real skincare magic in the form of acids and chemical exfoliators- all of which are over the counter care.

All acids are chemicals- so most chemical exfoliators are a combination of acids that are use to remove dead skin cells and target various layers of your skin. You might think- do I really want to use chemicals on my skin? The answer is yes- it is not dangerous unless you don’t apply the proper care after using them. Most acids are actually derived from natural elements.

You might also be asking yourself why you want to remove dead skin from your face if it’s not hurting you. If you want your skin to be healthy, absorb products, or to give that natural glow, you need to remove the dead skin cells that are preventing your new skin (remember– skin naturally regenerates) from being produced. This is when your skin looks dull, rough, or shows signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles.

You don’t need to use abrasives like scrubs to do that- in fact, you should be more careful with using those than any acids. Instead, acids gently remove dead skin by working beneath and on the skin’s surface. There are a couple of different types of acids, and they all play a different role in your skincare routine. But all acids should be used after you cleanse and before you moisturize.

Some of the most common acids used in skincare fall into three categories- AHA’s, BHA’s, and PHA’s. But the two that are used for targeting the texture and pigment of the skin are going to be your AHA’s and BHA’s.

AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) exfoliate the skin and stimulate your collagen production. These are the acids that encourage your skin to regenerate healthy skin that prevents signs of aging. They essentially target the surface of your skin, so they help with the scarring and pock-marks on my skin.

Some of the most common AHA’s that you will see in your products are lactic acid, glycolic acid and malic acid. Most products will likely include a variety of these, or specify one as the primary ingredient. They essentially break the connection of your dead skin cells from the healthy ones so they eventually remove themselves from your skin’s surface.

BHA’s (Beta Hydroxy Acid) is different in that there is less variety. The BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid, which actually comes from a natural source- willow bark. BHA’s will target clogged pores and clean them out, which is why it is used in many acne-clearing products. The primary purpose of a BHA is to remove bad oils and fight the bacteria that might be creating breakouts on your skin’s surface. Many chemical exfoliators will be a combination of AHA’s and BHA’s to really pack a punch to maintain healthy skin.

A couple of my favorite AHA + BHA products:

**Please note that some of these links may be affiliated, which means that I may earn small commission from your purchases. I would never promote a product I did not try and love.**

• These exfoliation pads from Sephora, which also serve to exfoliate the surface gently as you move them around your face. They use glycolic acid (AHA), which aids in the process of removing dead skin cells and brightening dull skin, as well as targeting pigmentation issues. I use these every morning.
• This Good Genes serum from Sunday Riley that can be used as a mask treatment or applied as part of your daily routine. It uses lactic acid (AHA) to bring moisture back to the skin by breaking the bonds between dead skin cells and new skin cells that are more full of moisture. Your skin will feel like a baby’s bottom if you use it as a mask.
• This Honeymoon Glow serum from Farmacy that you can use during your nightly skincare routine a few nights a week. It’s a combination of AHA and BHA’s, as well as other naturally derived ingredients (this is a clean beauty brand) that is meant to give you that natural glowing and radiant skin surface. I have been using this about 3 times a week on my skin, and make sure I give extra hydration in my moisturizer on those nights. This is one of the products I currently have in my skincare regimen.
• This overnight resurfacing peel from Beautycounter that’s a treatment similar to the one above. You want to incorporate this in your skincare routine a couple of nights a week, alternating with any retinol-based products. This is the first acid-based product I ever tried, and it really is an incredible product for first-timers.
• This Sakura Baby Facial mask from Drunk Elephant that leaves your skin feeling like a baby, which is where it gets its name from. A potent mix of predominantly AHA’s, regular use of this mask on a weekly basis has completely changed the texture and pigmentation of my skin. You will really feel this product working- you can check out my tips for use here.
• This budget-friendly peeling solution mask from The Ordinary is worth way more than it’s under $8 price tag. Yes, you will look scary when you use it (essentially like you rubbed blood on your face), but it is by far my favorite acid-based mask that has changed the texture of my skin so much since I started using it a few weeks ago. The Ordinary is a great brand to get into if you want to try specific acids for your skin needs, and create your own combinations without breaking the bank. They now sell all of their products at Ulta and Sephora.

One of the coolest things about these products is that you can feel them working. You will feel a tingly or zapping sensations when you use these products. You need to make sure that you follow the instructions for each product, and don’t leave any treatments or masks on for longer than instructed- usually 10-20 minutes max.

After you use these products, make sure you hydrate and moisturize your skin, or it may become sensitive. And you must must must use SPF after, as they will make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

Some other cult favorite chemical exfoliators include this toner from Pixi, and these daily pads from Dr. Dennis Gross. I’ve tried and liked both, but they have never made it into my regular routine. I also just got a sample of this mask from Herbivore that I am looking forward to trying.

I attribute so much of the healthy progress that my skin has made in just a year to these acids. I highly suggest you incorporate them into your own routine before you try any expensive medical procedures or treatments. I will definitely be looking into something to target the deep scarring, but do what you can at home, first, so you know what you really need. As a reminder, here’s what my skin looks like now without any makeup:

Lastly- don’t be scared if your skin is super sensitive. Acids are your friends! I have super dry and sensitive skin- I constantly have eczema around my nose and on my neck and arms- but these products can actually help your skin create more moisture if you use them appropriately.